The Hualalai Way: Aloha Big Island Respite, Delayed

Travel Ain’t for Sissies – But The Rewards Can Sometimes Be Worth It!

After a 24-hour delay to my Big Island flight on Hawaiian Airlines, which was delayed 12 hours, an overnight and food credit at the LAX Sheraton (courtesy of the airline), then accidentally leaving my small purse with my phone/passport/wallet on the LAX airport hotel shuttle – which the hotel miraculously returned to me on the next go around of shuttles so I didn’t miss my flight! – topped off by miles of walking to and fro through Tom Bradley Terminal – I finally landed on the Big Island of Hawai’i with a huge, appreciative sigh of relief and gratitude.

The warm blast of tropical air enveloped me like an old friend as I exited the plane. My resort transportation to my first stop Four Seasons Resort Hualalai – and the lovely woman who reunited me with my (damaged!) luggage and “talk story” with the swell driver in the air-conditioned van, who whisked me along the stark, dramatic volcanic scenery of the largest of the Hawaiian Islands – made me forget the worries and hassles of how my trip began. Cyclone Hone had moved along (despite some road damage on Mauna Kea roads) and the day was bright with promise. 

We passed through the guard gate and I was welcomed, at long last, into the stunning Balinese-style lobby with a comfortably seated “check-in” that included a cold towel to wipe my brow and a chilled Mai Tai, served on a tray at the lovely Four Seasons Resort Hualalai. 

Despite the approach of Hurricane Gilma (which was predicted to “fall apart” before it’s arrival, according to local morning news), and rain predicted later in the week, the days here were languid and warm with soft breezes and bright sun. The mesmerizing Pacific had ribbons of color – ranging from turquoise to sapphire blue.

After a stroll around the property to explore its offerings including the Hualalai Spa, two championship golf courses, numerous restaurants including open-air seaside options – my favorite being the Beach Club – I gained my bearings on the 865-acre resort.

My recently refurbished room, with a private lanai overlooking King’s Pond, was modern and relaxing, with Hawaiian touches.

The amazing King’s Pond, the resort’s famed 1.8-million-gallon swimmable aquarium, is home to over 1,000 rescued tropical fish and a resident 29-year-old eagle ray. It is just one of several pools at the resort, my favorite being Palm Grove Pool.

Dinner at the Hawaiian outpost of celebrated Chef Tyler Florence’s Miller & Lux Hualalai was a leisurely affair with an old friend, Adrian, whom I hadn’t seen in 30 years. He’d moved to the island a couple of years ago and over magnificent shared gigantic shrimp cocktail and refreshing oysters – both sustainably farm-raised at the resort – we talked about old times, only pausing for a performative tableside Caesar salad presentation before moving on to my fresh Dover sole (flown in every 48 hours!), and for Adrian a T-bone steak served with bone marrow and creamy mashed potatoes. 

Open air breakfast seaside is an equally peaceful way to start the day. The bountiful breakfast buffet one day delighted with Japanese-style offerings including pot stickers, fish, miso soup and salad. A tasty egg white frittata made with goat cheese, arugula and tomatoes satisfied the next morning’s breaking of fast.

One can always count on a dependably top-notch experience at any Four Seasons Hotel or resort, and Hualalai is no exception. 

The reimagined oceanfront restaurant that opened in January 2025, ‘ULU, features a menu that emphasizes Big Island offerings – 75% of the kitchen’s ingredients are sourced from the island, tapping more than 160 local Hawaii farms. Alongside ‘ULU’s reopening, the resort also debuted a new concept, NOIO, offering guests a rotating selection of the island’s catch in its signature omakase experience, à la carte options, signature sushi rolls, and more. I plan to check them both out during my next visit to the Big Island…a place I have loved, visited and even lived on (for a short time) over many, many years.

Although my two-night visit was shortened to a one-night stay due to my flight delay (sadly, I missed my spa appointment!), I moved within the expansive resort grounds to one of the lovely private residence vacation home rentals at Hualalai Villas & Homes. It was exciting to see the high-end resort in person. The amiable Director of Residences, Chris Colvin, who grew up in Ojai, but has lived on Hawai’i’s Big Island for 20 years with his wife and twin daughters, took me on a golf cart tour to see a few of these unique properties, including one in which I shamelessly luxuriated – and hope to share in a future column. 

Whichever island you choose to visit in the Hawaiian islands –and whether staying with friends, booking upscale or camp-simple, be sure to take the Island of Hawai’i’s “Pono Pledge,” that includes important conscious-and-respectful ways of bringing a visitor. The pledge translates to “One’s love for the planet is an inseverable relationship.” For more info and to pledge to be pono (righteous) on the island, go to www.PonoPledge.com

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai is a two MICHELIN Key hotel and Hawai’i Island’s first and only AAA Five-Diamond and Forbes Five-Star Resort. Visit www.fourseasons.com/hualalai