Road Trippin’ Up North: Part 2 – Sonoma to Marin

There is nothing better than a happy accident – not a car accident, but a missed turn-off that reveals an eye-popping, jaw-dropping view which is what happened on my backroads drive from Petaluma, in Sonoma County to Lagunitas, in Marin County. After whizzing past The Marin Cheese Company, without enough time to pull over (next time!), and then missing my turn-off towards Lagunitas, I came upon the Nicasio Reservoir, full and stunning, from the winter rains. I pulled over for a photo opp, apologized to two lovebirds enjoying the view for invading their space. I wanted to capture the moment with a picture, which is, as they say, worth a thousand words. However, I must admit, my photo of the gobsmacking views barely does the location justice.

I then briefly backtracked to Nicasio Valley Road and headed east. I pulled over at Nicasio Valley Cheese Company where I tasted and purchased a cache of their 100% organic, award-wining farmstead cow milk cheeses, including Foggy Morning, San Geronimo, Tomino, Nicasio Reserve and their excellent, stinky, taleggio-style “Nicasio Square” from the Lafranchi Ranch. I am now a dedicated 21st century fan of this ranch, which has been in operation since 1919. I also grabbed a dozen farm eggs; and perhaps the world’s most expensive potato chips ($18! My guilty snack for the long drive home). Almost a month later I am still living off – and sharing with friends – their fantastic cheeses. You can also stay at the farm. The family house, advertised on Airbnb as “Gma’s Ranch House: Nostalgic Charm, Surreal Views” sleeps ten. Seems to me that Grandma’s vintage house could be a great place for a family reunion or best friend’s getaway, where your only neighbors are the cows responsible for Nicasio Valley Cheese Company’s great products… plus there’s a pool.

Next stop, Lagunitas, for the restoration of a valuable lithographic photo by the top photo conservationist in the country. At Gawain Weaver Art Conservation, I toured Gaiwan’s bustling facility where, among other projects, two women in an icy, temperature-controlled room were tasked with restoring our California State Library photo archives. 

Time for lunch, and my friend Thea met me at a cozy setting, Giaco’s Valley Roadhouse. They were “out” of the toasted Sardinian fregola bowl that we wanted to order, instead a tummy-warming chicken gnocchi soup with sourdough bread fit the bill. Thea then led me to a lovely, favorite easy hiking spot through the fairy circle in Roy’s Forest (highly recommended) recently redone with easy-to-stroll wooden plank walkways. You can still spot where “fairy circles” have been known to gather and cocoon in the womb of the great redwoods.

I was an invited guest at Thea and her beau’s lovely mid-century home where our dinner was pick-up/take out from the super popular Lou’s Takeaway (phone: (415) 226-7994) with daily changing lunch and dinner offerings. You must phone in your order within a designated small window of time (two busy signals later, our dedicated dialer Carl got through!) to place your order. We shared fresh crab of the season, pork shoulder and a spicy chili chicken that came with rice and salad. You can get the “picture” from “Lou’s” Instagram. 

My drive home from Fairfax, in Marin County, back to Santa Barbara took eight hours due to a traffic jam. With just two brief stops: first in Gonzales (perhaps you’ve seen the global water tower sign from the 101) where I enjoyed a quick tostada at Linda’s – and the wrong ice cream from the Santa Fe Mercado and Carniceria – before discovering a swell ice cream parlor with a disco-swirl design floor called Del Valle Paleteria y Neveria, specializing in nieve (sorbet style ice cream) and paletas (popsicles). I sampled, ‘natch, and this is now on my California road trip hit list and should be on yours too, especially if you are traveling with kiddos. 

Last, but not least, my Paso Robles “must stop” is always Tin City if you want to sit down for a meal – and to pick up fresh pasta and alfredo sauce to bring home from Etto Pastificio, a small market full of imported foods and fresh pasta next door to Etto Pasta Bar. All the organic semolina pasta is made fresh in Tin City in the impressive facilities.

On that note, I will say “sayonara” for now, and will transport my next missive, dear readers, from Japan!