London Treasures and Tips

This girl never tires of London. 

My perfect day in London would include walking as much as possible, popping into rare bookstores, antique shops, and art galleries, attending an auction at Bonhams, Christie’s, or Sotheby’s, and lingering in a museum or two. A “must” is catching a play and listening to jazz at Ronnie Scott’s. This may be too much for one day – but you get my drift. Many attractions and diversions are free, but a splurge on delicious Dover sole is traditional in the dining realm for me, but very affordable meals are often found in museum cafés. As someone who has been visiting London regularly for many moons, here are some of my favorite stops, old and new, along with a useful hotel tip for some. A traveler doesn’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy the many riches of London, as suggested below. 

1. Day Hotels

I usually take an overnight British Airways flight from NYC to London, arriving early morning with a long day ahead before standard hotel check-in. Last year, I discovered “day rate” hotels. I went directly from Heathrow to The Londoner Hotel in the heart of the West End, where I relaxed in the spa’s pool and steam rooms, showered and freshened up in a lovely room, and strolled over to the recently refurbished National Portrait Gallery – a place I first visited with my fairy godchildren when they were young… and didn’t have children of their own!

The Londoner offers access to a relaxing guest area called “The Residence,” that offers complimentary nibbles, tea, beverages, and even rare whiskies. Guest rooms are lush, and the pillows divinely soft – just don’t nap and let jet lag win! Later that day, I arrived refreshed and presentable to check into my charming, small room with a view at the stunning Oxford and Cambridge Club, a reciprocal club with our very own University Club of Santa Barbara after my “day” visit and recovery.

Pro Tip: The Londoner offers day rates (usually 10 am – 6 pm), www.thelondoner.com; National Portrait Gallery: Open daily, free admission, www.npg.org.uk

2. Tried and True

I never tire of the Tate Britain – or Tate Modern. A recent visit to revisit beloved works by Mark Rothko, Turner, and more included a delicious and affordable lunch at Tate Britain’s cafeteria-style serve yourself café. I’m especially fond of art museum dining spots around the globe, which tend to be dependable and fairly priced. www.tate.org.uk

3. A Rare and Unusual House Museum

Sir John Soane’s Museumis a cornucopia of art, architectural fragments, an Egyptian sarcophagus, and more that somehow escaped both my notice and that of a native Londoner friend! This free museum (as are many in London) is small, quirky, and worth adding to your “hidden gems” list. www.soane.org 

4. London’s Oldest Botanic Garden

Chelsea Physic Garden, founded in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries, is the oldest garden in London (Fulham Palace Garden takes second place). Despite years of staying with friends in Chelsea, I was unaware of this hidden treasure. I learned about it from dear friend/London resident Valerie Ferguson, a former volunteer guide there, whom I met at a Music Academy concert in Montecito many moons ago. Valerie confided that relatively few Londoners know about this delightful spot, possibly because it wasn’t open to the public until 1983. 

Informative (and free) 50-minute tours of the 3.5-acre gem are arranged in themed pockets that contain some 5,000 plants grown as medicine. Physicians traditionally came here for healing herbs and to learn how to treat the sick. The garden’s “in perpetuity” leasehold of just five pounds annually (less than $7) is still robust, thanks to a passel of dedicated volunteers, including longtime docent Valerie, who served as our guide on her last public tour of the season. Physic Garden Café, right at the garden’s edge, offers light bites and even “champers” or book a place at the table at one of their summer “supper clubs” if they are not sold out! www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk

5. Walking, Art, and Royal Palaces

A favorite walk is anywhere along the Thames, especially through Battersea Park with a stop to admire the magnificent Barbara Hepworth bronze sculpture, Single Form. Last year, I walked diagonally across the entirety of Hyde Park from my lodging in St. James’s to meet my fairy godchildren and their father for lunch at The Orangery (refurbished last year) in Kensington Gardens. Afterward, we enjoyed a self-guided tour of Kensington Palace, the childhood home of Queen Victoria. The Orangery, built in 1704-05 for Queen Anne, once hosted royal parties. Now, we plebeians can enjoy an elegant lunch or afternoon tea on its patio. Pax and Luna loved doing somersaults on the lawns, exploring the palaces room, and visiting the Princess Diana Memorial Garden. Keep an eye out for special events, like free guided meditation sessions in Kensington Gardens and in the King’s Gallery at the palace (currently £25). Kensington Palace & Gardens (and The Orangery) is one of six historic royal residences open to the public by reservation.

For more on the Kensington Palace, click here!

Also recommended: Fulham Palace House and Gardens – A humbler former palace with riverside walks, a lovely casual café, and photogenic history. www.fulhampalace.org