The Best Laid Plans: A Trippy “Trip” at Lafayette Hotel and Club

It wasn’t exactly what we’d planned for. My high school friend Annie joined me to celebrate our mutual June birthdays. We planned a trip to San Diego and Valle De Guadalupe, Baja. She took Amtrak from Union Station to Oceanside; I picked her up at the train station and we sped down to the recently refurbished Lafayette Hotel and Club on El Cajon Boulevard in the University-North Park neighborhood of San Diego.

I knew the original Lafayette Hotel well – having stayed here a few times over the decades. I even had Easter brunch here on the morning my father (who lived nearby) had passed away at the VA hospital in La Jolla. 

I was anxious to see the re-do and find out why Esquire magazine deemed the Lafayette Hotel and Club San Diego’s “Best New Hotel.”

To begin with, the Lafayette appeals to a certain clientele which includes hipsters of all generations. Second, there is NO shortage of amusing design elements to discover here – from decorative brass cobra lamps to wallpaper I would not recommend staring at if you are on anything minimally close to a psychedelic drug. In fact, we learned that one guest departed before they checked in – frightened off by the snake handles on the entrance doors. There’s a lot of whimsy for grown-ups and kids who wonder at the magic of it all.

No design thought was left unturned – the hotel has morphed into a grand experiment in maximalism and obvious Instagram-able vignettes. I wondered who was behind this madhouse? A bar called “Quixote” was so dark you could barely make out the details – even when eyeballs adjusted to the lack of light. Here at the bar, we shared a tasty spicy tuna tostada while waiting for our room to be ready.

We checked in just in time to see the pool and various indoor and outdoor dining venues packed to the gills. The pool, patio, vintage-style diner, and indoor restaurant space and bar off the lobby, these are all serviced by one kitchen – quel miracle! We salivated at Caesar salads with salmon that floated by as we made our way to our upstairs “pool room” with a patio and view of all the pool action. 

En route, the bellman and I had to navigate around a small circle of bathing beauties, dining picnic-style on the concrete pool deck and blocking passage to the stairway up to our room. Seeing our struggle, a buff tattooed dude jumped out of the pool and offered to help with the luggage. This was a first! 

A few minutes later, my friend Annie arrived and we both marveled at all the decorative touches in the twin Queen room: beaded lamp shades, bedside water carafes and glasses, very cool stationery, a “mini bar” – that was more “maxi” with its vast array of unique liquor choices and cocktail recipes. Aperol Spritz anyone? Striped canopies adorned our beds; there was even a curtain, to be drawn like a Punch and Judy puppet show, hiding the television. 

I went down to fetch the car from valet parking while Annie unpacked her suitcase. The gaggles of gals had departed from their poolside party spot – but unbeknownst to me a plastic Melmac plate had been left behind. Yours truly went flying through the air – and not with the greatest of ease – landing hard and twisted like a pretzel on my knee on the tiled pool surround. I seem to remember spinning like the flying teacups at a certain theme park. Wheeee… not.

Poolside dwellers rushed over to help, someone kindly assisted me to the lobby, where I asked for ice and the name of the nearest Urgent Care. Annie drove me for an X-ray – we went back to the hotel, my knee in a brace (thankfully not fractured), and the staff, including fantastic GM Steve Slack, took excellent care of us.

Due to my mishap, we were moved to a quieter room with elevator access versus a stairway. Steve and staff, including lovely Niki Pugh, brought up a dining table and chairs for room service (their first!) after my “trip” to Urgent Care. We were famished! The salmon with baked potato and classic Caesar salad were delicious and paired with a lovely glass of white wine (I chose this over the pain med, per the nurse practitioner’s firm suggestion of “one or the other”). I was starved and grateful to have dinner in bed, while icing my bruised and swollen knee and tweaked back.

The next evening, Anne found a back passageway where I could hobble with my cane (brought by a friend) to Lou Lou’s, the hotel’s very cool supper club. We ordered drinks and had a delicious dinner – Wagyu beef for her, gnocchi for me – as the band played on. 

Lou Lou’s is a study in pink and posh and more whimsical design, with great live music. Hardworking waiters deliver drinks and balance dinner orders. Beloved locals perform here – like trumpet player and Young Lions Jazz Conservatory founder/teacher Gilbert Castellanos, fine bass player Rob Thorsen, his wife/singer Steph Johnson and other great sidemen-and-women. I had come to hear friends perform – and it was a great distraction from my fall the day before.

The next morning, I hobbled down to a fantastic goodbye breakfast of avocado eggs benedict with hash browns in the 24-hour “Beginner’s Diner.” My dear San Diego friend Sam Hueso came by to visit (since I could not drive) with his three children who couldn’t believe the magical setting. 

“This place is rich!” said beautiful 13-year-old Celeste to her dad.“It’s like Disneyland for YOU!” Sam ordered the same tasty breakfast as me. His kids had eaten at home, so they ordered – what else? – orange juice served in colorful glasses and delicious milkshakes! (Those over 21 can order these spiked with booze!) These were served with a smile and red striped paper straws.

I never did make it into the pool (and lost my fave bathing suit, which was drying on the deck during our room change!) but I did make the best of the situation to enjoy the magic of this whimsical resort. 

The Lafayette Hotel and Club is not only a hotel for the ages, but provided new memories to add to those I accumulated during several prior, meaningful visits. Thank you, Hotel Lafayette and staff, you will always hold a place in my heart. I look forward to returning – and gently slipping into the pool…  

The Lafayette Hotel and Club

2223 El Cajon Blvd. San Diego; www.lafayettehotelsd.com
Reservations@Lafayettehotelsd.com
Don’t bother trying to phone, chances are pretty good you won’t reach a human. But in case you want to hear the amusing recording, call: (619) 296-2101