Local Favorite Brings New Flavors in SB Brasserie
I, like many, was heartbroken when it was announced that the Black Sheep Restaurant was up for sale in 2020. Local foodies mourned the idea of losing another beloved downtown restaurant. Even if the establishment lived on under new ownership, it would not have been the same. For me, their white marinated anchovy crostini exemplified the Black Sheep style – the small dish was simple, elegant, and impactful in a single bite. Walking by Black Sheep, you’d often see Co-owner and GM, Ruben Perez, through the window, standing tableside and talking to guests. His dad, Robert Perez, was the head chef. It was not just the delectable dishes that earned them a cult following – it was the familial charm. Thankfully, the restaurant ultimately did not sell, and Ruben along with his new business partner, Chef Jake Reimer, have brought back the restaurant with a new look and location, but with the same feel and similar meals, that made it so popular in the first place.
In 2020, Ruben had been working years of 16+ hour days and didn’t feel like he had enough energy for his family (plus his dad was looking to retire at some point) – add in a dash of Covid burnout – Ruben was ready for the next chapter of his life. As he put up the restaurant for sale, looking towards what’s next and facing the unemployment line, the idea of leaving it behind made him sad. Fortunately, he crossed paths with Chef Jake and the two hit it off with similar styles, sentiments, and shared eyes on a new location: 18 E. Cota St.
From the long-established Mousse Odile that inhabited the place for two decades to the more recent Rascal’s Vegan pop up, the site at 18 E. Cota St. has long drawn in restaurateurs and their dreams with its unique stairwell leading to a second-floor outcrop, or the cozy back patio. The location has been one of Ruben and Jake’s favorite spots at different times in their careers, and when they ended up getting their hands on the space, “the rest just kind of filled itself out.”
While there were a few ideas drifting about, Ruben states, “I listened to what people were saying and at this point we’re just wearing Black Sheep as a badge of honor. Jake calls it a ‘cult-like following,’ which is pretty awesome. We have such an amazing local clientele that follows us and we’re so grateful for that. So we decided to keep the Black Sheep tradition going and just rebranded it as the modern French Brasserie.” Ruben and Jake took inspiration from the “glory days” of the French-themed Mousse Odile and wanted to restore the space as a “neighborhood gem.”
There’s certainly some similarities between the old menu and new one, says Ruben. Although the white anchovy crostinis aren’t currently on the menu, there are some familiar favorites still there. “The soul and the love that we put into every dish is a big carryover for us. We had to keep the bone marrow bruschetta because that was one of our most popular dishes – very unique and super tasty. But our Coq au Vin is mouthwatering; organic chicken in a red wine sauce that’s braised for four and a half to five hours – super tender with the bacon, Cipollini onions, turnips and carrots. It’s just a super savory dish.” Chef Jake – who has worked over 30 years at spots like Wine Cask, Miro at the Bacara, and Maravilla at Ojai Valley Inn – puts his own spin on the menu too, with Ruben noting that Chef Jake brings his own twist on duck confit. Ultimately though: “We just wanna cook food and make people happy. I mean, that’s our bottom line. It’s pretty simple for us,” says Ruben.
The Tasting Menu is the best way to experience all that Black Sheep offers. Served family style and at $65 a person, this option takes guests on a nine-dish journey over four courses. The offerings will change over seasons and whatever specialties they have in store on a particular evening.
Our own tasting trek began with an amuse-bouche of cauliflower soup. Presented in an espresso cup, the smooth soup brought wisps of curry and a subtle snap of apple that served as the perfect pick-me-up for what culinary adventures lay ahead. From there it was a rush of plates and flavor as we traveled through dishes like a fresh, enticing bright beet salad, to a 48-hour beef short rib that fell off the bone, or rather, slumped off in a similar fashion to our own posture as we neared the nine-dish finishing line.
One of the most gripping dishes was a scallop crudo that brought the crisp bite of ocean wave break to the plate. The delicate fish sat atop a sea of lime green emulsion – adding both a swath of color and the snap of spring peas and green garlic – with the crunch of a hearts of palm, radish, and sea bean salad contrasting the crudo’s silky texture. The other standout dish was the Hand Rolled Ricotta Cavatelli. Delicate pillows of pasta rested on a soothing white port sauce with foothill mushrooms tucked in and a dreamy dollop of nettle pistou to awaken the other flavors.
Their Apero daily special – an early dinner prix fixe deal that runs from 5 to 6 pm everyday – is another enjoyable option to taste a range of their specialties. The special offers three courses for $39 and includes 30% off any alcohol.
Whether it is the full Tasting Menu experience or just stopping off for a quick ramen, there’s comfort in both the food and knowing that Black Sheep is still here.
